Day: 64-65 Location: Munich, Bavaria, Germany
December 2-3, 2017
As the bus slowly departed Dresden, I settled into my seat, ready to drift to sleep and awake in the morning in a new city, that of Munich. I really despised these overnight buses (or trains!) but couldn’t resist saving on accommodation, so I dealt with it. Typically, these rides were uneventful and I could manage a few hours of shut eye. However, little did I know that just as I was hitting my REM cycle at about 2am, I was about to be rudely awoken.
A voice over the loudspeaker jared me awake, its German dialect unable to be deciphered. A quick look out the window informed me that we were stopped at a gas station, so I surmised the driver was announcing a plan rest stop. I plan to return to sleep however the sight of two German police offers boarding the bus gave me pause to do otherwise. The walked slowly down the aisle of the bus, curt responses directed to fellow passengers. When they reached my seat, they barked an order at me and in my half asleep, half worried state , I could only stare back. They repeated the order again and I finally managed to respond “English?” to the surly looking officer. “Passport” was the only answer I received. I handed it over, he pocketed it and kept walking. He collected a few passports and then, to my surprise, left the bus. I worriedly tried to look out the window however I couldn’t make out where the 2 officers had disapeared to. I looked worriedly around, however all other passengers were calm, most were quietly chatted, quite a few had return to sleep. While the logical part of my brain reassured me that this must be some type of routine stop and that everything was fine, the conspiracy theory part of my brain quickly took over. Were these really police officers? Were they legit? What if this was some type of scam to steal my passport? Was I going to have to offer them money to get it back? Had I broken some type of law? On and on it went for an excruciating hour, until the same officers returned calmly on the bus and returned everyone’s passport. Within a few minutes, the engine groaned to life and we set off towards Munich. I never did find out what the visit was all about, however someone did mention afterwards that the German police were actively searching for the perpetrators of the 2016 terrorist attack at the Berlin Christmas Market and that they were stopping all overnight buses and trains to check passports….
I arrived in Munich at 6am, weary and slightly unsettled. I set off in the dark towards my accommodation, a hostel. This would be the second time I stayed in a hostel and, truthfully, I wasn’t looking forward to it. However, the price was right! I knew I would be arriving before my bed was ready, so I had planned to leave my bags, wait for daylight and treat myself to a nice, warm breakfast before starting to explore. As soon as I walked into the building, my ‘spidey sense’ started tingling. The communal room was filled with a few couches, where people were sprawled out, sleeping. I checked in and asked if I could leave my bags. I was given a large brick with a small key and told to “go outside, out back”. Skeptically, I complied and found an old shed, with rickety shelves filled with luggage. I brushed the cobwebs out of the way and avoided the areas that were littered with empty beer bottles and left my things (by this point, I had acquired a small rolling suitcase to carry all my Christmas shopping). I started to head back, however I quickly decided to lock my suitcases together and to a fixed pipe, you know, just in case. Back inside, I pulled out my laptop and between the chorus of snores surrounding me, I started looking for a restaurant in the area. Between listing of local places to eat, a Tripadvisor review of my hostel popped up. Two words quickly caught my eye: bed bugs. I immediately started to read reviews, all submitted within the last few days and all referencing the presence of bed bugs with truly graphic photos. My skin began to crawl, my breath quickened, I needed to get out. I cancelled my reservation online without hesitation and started looking for other accommodations. The only hotel I could find (and that didn’t reference bed bugs in the last 3 years of reviews) was across town and more than I wanted to pay but I jumped on it. I asked for the key again, grabbed my bags and set off. As soon as I arrived in my new hotel, I knew things were going to be ok. I left my bags in a secured, well lite, clean and indoor closet and set about finding the quaint restaurant that promised “the best breakfast in Munich”. No sooner had I found it that I was promptly turned away as I had not made a reservation! Luckily, there was another little spot across the square. I was really looking forward to a warm breakfast, some eggs or maybe french toast or even waffles…. but I had to settle for a “traditional German” breakfast of deli ham, cheese slices and pretzel!
Once again, I found myself in a city where I had no idea what there was to visit. I literally was here for only one day and one reason: the Christmas Markets, duh! At this point, I basically gave up the pretence that I would explore the city’s historical and cultural sights and just focused on my main objectives: drink glühwein & collect a new mug! You see, every year, every market produces a unique mug from which they serve glühwein. For a few euros, visitors keep the mug and they soon become an addictive collectible (I returned with 4!)
Marienplatz, the city’s main square since 1158 is the location of the most popular market. Located in the Altstadt or Old Town, the square contains landmarks such as Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) and a widely popular glockenspiel show that chimes and reenacts stories from the 16th century. These Germans sure do love their clocks!
Marienplatz is so named after the Mariensäule, a decorative column dedicated to Mary. In Bavaria, Mary is revered as a patron saint and thus, a column holding a golden likeness of her was erected in 1638. There are 4 statues as the base of the pedestal, represented the city’s overcoming of adversities: war represented by the lion, pestilence by the cockatrice, hunger or famine by the dragon and heresy by the serpent.
Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall)
A winter chill was well established in the air, making it the perfect excuse to indulge in my new favorite Christmas treat: glühwein! A staple of the Christmas Market, glühwein is essentially mulled wine or spiced wine, Served hot, red wine is spiced with a combination of orange, lemon, cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise, cloves, cardamon and ginger. It’s exactly what’s needed when strolling from stand to stand, admiring the traditional German wares on display. And besides, it’s traditional and even, historical. Glühwein dates back to the Romans of the 2nd century! As they say, when in Rome…
After a lovely day, I headed back to my hotel room, hoping for a more restful end of the day than how it started.
As soon as I opened the door, I was greeted by a whiff of clean sheets, bold colours and a sweet surprise awaiting on my bed : a Lindt advent calendar!
Tis the season!