Day: 9 (Marseille)
Km travelled: 42.68km
Steps: 16,850
September 15th, 2017
If I owned Marseille and Hell, I’d rent out Marseille and live in Hell.
– John McCarthy
While Mr. McCarthy might have a flair for the dramatic, he was not entirely off the mark with that comment. This city in the French Riviera evokes thoughts of sail boats and suntans, clear blue water and milky yellow liquor. However, Marseille has often carried the reputation of ‘visit at your own risk’ for many tourists. While older than Paris, Marseille is nowhere near as pretty. It’s grand buildings are crumbling and covered in graffiti. The streets are littered with trash and grifters adorn the street corners. This capital of Provence is a far cry from the storybook villages that captured my imagination a few days ago.
Catching an overnight train in Marseilles gave me the opportunity to visit the city for a few hours. Pressed for time, I opted for a ‘hop on / hop off’ bus tour to maximize my time. With over 241 km2 and 8hrs, there was no way my feet would carry me to all that Marseille had to offer. I started off at The Vieux Port, the main tourist attraction in the city. In use since Antiquity, it propelled Marseille into the main port city of France. Now it is mainly used as a marina.
The bus route travelled along the coast, each turn revealing another exquisite landscape. L’anse des Catalans, the Vallon des Auffes; each offering a glimpse into the Mediterranean lifestyle of beaches and easy living.
We continued winding our way up into the city, going higher and further away from the sea. I disembarked to explore another famous sight: Notre Dame de la Garde basilica. This monumental church stands upon the highest natural peak of Marseille. Built on the site of an original church erected in the 13th century, the structure now holds a massive bell tower adorned with a gilded statue of Madonna and Child.
There are 895 steps to get to the couch and another 341 to ascend to its interior. (Alright, I have no idea how many steps there really are, but it’s a lot. Trust me). The reward for that breathtaking hike: breathtaking views!
A break in the clouds allowed the sun to peak through at exactly the right time to cast a warm glow over the entire cityscape. 360 views were almost enough to redeem this Mediterranean port town in my opinion. Almost.
As serendipitously as the sun come out, it hastened its retreat behind a thick wall of ominous clouds. I, as well, sought shelter in the warmth and comfort of the bus and continued on the scenic drive. Sights such as
Abbaye Saint Victor and the Fort St Jean streaked by the window. As the mistral made its appearance and the rain started to come down, I wandered off the bus and followed the savoury aromas of bouillabaisse and fresh bread until it lead me to a quaint bistro overlooking the Old Port. In true provencale fashion, supper was had outdoors. I kept myself warm with a hot and cheesy bowl of homemade gnocchi and a decadent glass of red wine.
As the sun began to set, I made my way to the train station to wait out the final hours before the overnight train arrived. I waited it out at the main train station, St Charles, as the station where I was due to board my train appeared less than stellar. Make that downright questionable. Isolated and poorly lit, I opted to wait amongst the crowd at Marseille’s busiest transportation hub.
Saint Charles Train Station
While at the station, I committed the ultimate traveler faux pas: I went to McDonald’s! Not to eat but to indulge in fresh, warm espresso. North American McCafe coffee is actually quite good and I was even more pleasantly surprised when my drink was handcrafted with an actual espresso machine!
As my day in Marseille came to an end, I boarded my first ever sleeper train. I was excited to experience this seemingly exotic yet quintessential part of European travel. The reality however, was slightly different. I’ll spare you all the excruciating details and simply say that it was akin to sleeping on a prison bunk bed … not that I have any experience with that… Luckily for me, I had my upcoming weekend in Champagne to fill my dreams that night!