Castle and Abbeys and Churches, oh my!

Day: 2 (Caen to Honfleur)
Km travelled: 75.39km
Steps: 17,777

September 8th 2017

I awoke early on this what I considered the true first day of my adventure!  After an overpriced yet filling & leisurely  breakfast at the hotel, my friends very generously offered to pick me up before heading out to explore the sights of Caen.  Caen is the second largest city of Normandy (northwestern France).  Caen is likely known to Canadians because of the Battle for Caen, a part of the Battle of Normandy during the Second World War.  The Canadian ties are everywhere!

Plaque affixed to the wall of the visitor’s centre, Chateau de Caen

WWII sites aren’t the only things that Caen is known for.  It has a famous son you might have heard of: William the Conqueror.  The same William the Conqueror of the Battle of Hastings fame, the duke of Normandy who became King of England (and father to Richard the Lionheart).  Many of the buildings he had built are still standing today.  the two most important and impressive: Chateau de Caen and Abbey St Etienne (Abbaye aux Hommes). 

Caen Castle

William, duke of Normandy, built the castle in 1060.  That’s almost 1000 years ago! And it’s still standing to this day.  Well most of it is.  After the French Revolution, the hall and the keep were ordered destroyed.  The castle was also severely damaged during the bombings of 1944 where it served as soldier’s barracks.  The fortifications have since been repaired and walking the ramparts gives one a spectacular view of Caen.The ruins of the keep, destroyed during the French Revolution.  Only the foundation remains.

Another impressive sight and my personal favourite in Caen is l’Abbaye aux Hommes, a former Benedictine monastery.  This too was built by the duke, likely as a sort of peace-offering to Pope Leo IX, as the two had a falling out over William’s marriage to his cousin, Mathilda of Flanders.  The Abbey is definitely worth a visit, if not for the architecture then definitely for the history.  It is considered one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Normandy.  To me, it was reminiscent of Westminster Abbey in London.  William the Conqueror was buried here however his remains were looted and scattered over the years and only one femur remains to this day.

Abbaye aux Hommes

During the Battle for Caen, the citizens who had not fled the city took refuge in the Abbey.  They stayed for over a month.  There was a small display, at the back that highlighted the destruction of the city and the plight of its people during the bombings.  Again and again, this city reminds visitors of the devastation and destruction hate brings and the high price that was paid for our freedom.  A sobering though indeed.

After much more walking the streets of Caen and discovery the beauty and charm of this Norman city, our last stop was the ‘twin sister’ of L’Abbaye aux Hommes: L’Abbaye aux Dames (ou Abbaye St Trinite).  The two were built around the same time and Mathilde, wife of William, is buried here.  The Abbey itself is a slightly less grand version of its counterpart, yet the intricacies of the stone work is still something to behold.  And it’s free, so definitely worth a stop.

                                                        Abbey aux Dames

After a long afternoon / early evening of walking (and sorting out the Sim card situation – hello data!), I said goodbye to my travel mates, strapped on my backpack and headed to the bus station.  Direction: Honfleur!

Caen, France