In The City of a Hundred Spires

Location: Prague, Czech Republic
Weather: Sunny, 10C

December 1, 2017

One of the really great things about travelling in Europe is that you can easily move around from one historic city to another, as everything is so close.  I took advantage of this and hoped on a bus headed to the capital city of the Czech Republic, Prague!

I luckily arrived on a cold, but wonderfully sunny day.  I planned to take the metro into the city and quickly realized that the Czech Republic has its own currency, the koruna, which I had none.  Thank goodness for the modern miracle of the ATM! (Seriously, how did people travel in the past?)

View from Wenceslas Square, one of the city’s main squares

1.3 million people call Prague home & as the 5th most visited European city (after London, Paris, Rome & Istanbul), several more millions pass through each year.  So you can imagine, during the Christmas season, Prague gets crowded,  Very crowded.   Especially in the Old Town.  Luckily, my walk started in the New Town of Prague, where I was blissfully unaware of the throngs of visitors that awaited me further up.

Prague came into existence thousands of years ago (we’re talking 1300 BC), and has long held importance historical significance.  The kingdom was previously called Bohemia, and many kings as well as Holy Roman Emperors set up shop here.   Prague flourished during the 14th-century reign of Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor; he transformed Prague into an imperial capital and it was at that time by the area the third-largest city in Europe (after Rome and Constantinople).

Along the square is the famed Grand Hotel Europa (or Evropa).  Built in 1889 in the Art Nouveau style, the hotel is famous for its beauty and elegance – its exquisite ornate interior was featured in movies such as Mission Impossible and Titanic.

This part of the Czech republic is often referred to as Bohemia, its patron saint, the famous ‘Good King Wenceslas’ or Saint Wenceslas as he is known here.  (Yes, the same one from the song).  The Due of Bohemia, as he was known at the time, was brutally murdered by his brother and almost immediately afterwards, developed a cult following which ultimately led to his veneration as a Catholic saint.  Statues and tributes to him can be found all over Bohemia, such as in Wenceslas Square, named in his honour. 

The most, umm, unique interpretation of his likeness can be found in the Lucerna Palace, a shopping arcade.  Hanging from the ceiling, the ancient king rides triumphantly astride… an upside-down, apparently dead horse.  Created by Prague-born artist David Černý, the sculpture is a mocking reference to the more famous equestrian statue of King (and later, Saint) Wenceslas that sits in Wenceslas Square, and possibly a mocking nod to Czech president Vaclav Klaus, although the artist will not say what his intentions were (Wikipedia).

Luckily for me, Prague was dressed in its finest for Christmas – or at least starting to as you can see from the photo on the left, taken in Old Town Square.  This was a few days into my Christmas Market tour of Europe, so I was really starting to get into the spirit!  

Old Town Square is also the home of one of Prague’s most famous sights: the Astronomical Clock.  The oldest astronomical clock still in operation, it dates back to 1410 when it was first installed on the side of the Old Town Hall Tower.  Once the clock strikes the hour, the 12 Apostles begin their parade past the uppermost windows of the clock.   Other figures are set in motion as well;  the skeleton rings an hourglass in order to show to the Turk that his lifetime is at the end. He shakes his head. The Vain Man and the Miser behave similarly.

   

 

No visit to Prague would be complete without crossing the famous Charles Bridge.

Crossing the Vltava river, it was constructed in the 15th century.  Now accessible only to pedestrians, it was once the only link between Old Town and Lesser Town across the river.  Two towers flank either ends and a collection of Baroque statues decorate pillars on the bridge.  As it is extremely popular with visitors who flock to it in droves (not to mention lovers as evidenced by the locks of love affixed to the bridge above), it is also a favorite haunting ground for street vendors and artists, awaiting to entice tourists with their wares.  

 

A day trip to Prague is a whirlwind, hectic way to dip your toe in this city that has much to offer.  A definite entry on my “must visit again” list.  

Before leaving, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join the queue below for one of the city’s most sought after attractions: the public restroom.  That’s right folks, I queued for 30minutes, to pay 1.5euro to go to the washroom in a shopping mall.   Definitely my #1 travel pet peeve, paying to use the restroom!  And to have to line up for it?  Torture! 

This is also the exact moment I came up with my brilliant plan to start my own washroom scheme (I was going to charge half the price!) as a fool proof way to fund my ongoing travels…. brilliant, no?