Day: 59 Location: Sintra, Portugal Weather: Cold, wet and foggy
November 4th, 2017
In the years leading up to my travels, I was, let’s say, quite vocal about my plans. Everyone knew about it. The advantage of that, by far, is I received a plethora of travel tips, tricks and destination recommendations! Sintra was one of these such recommendations, made by a colleague. However, in all honesty, I had forgotten all about this “magical” city by the time I arrived in Portugal. As I had extended my time in Lisbon, I decided to take advantage of my longer stay and go on a day trip. I was debating heading to the coast, however slightly less tempting in November, when I came upon a post listing Sintra as a perfect day trip destination. I remembered the recommendation and booked a trip on the first train the next day.
Upon arriving in Sintra, located on the Portuguese Riviera about 1 hr train ride north of Lisbon, I immediately got on the “tourist” bus and headed to my first destination: Castle of the Moors.
Perched high atop the Sintra Mountains, the 8th century castle is more ruins than actual castle. Originally built by the Moors as a military outpost, it surrendered to the Christian forces during the Reconquista in 1147. After suffering damage over the centuries and by result of the region’s devastating earthquake, a restoration effort was made in the 19th century and the site is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The day I visited was perfect: dark and moody with a thick layer of fog rolling over the ruins. Ominous.
Talk about setting the scene for a visit to abandoned ruins! Eerie.
Makes you wonder which conquering force is waiting around the corner…
The major highlight of the visit is walking the perimeter wall of the castle. Thick stones were used to create the ramparts, creating an impenetrable defensive wall, perched high above the city it protects.
The view was absolutely amazing!
However, walking along the stone path, made slick by the morning dew, I quickly discovered something new: I hate walking on slippery narrow stone walkway hundrededs of feet in the air. As I was taking the photo below, I could feel my legs start to shake and my whole body sway. I couln’t find my center and this growing pit of anxiety started to form in my stomach. Now, I have never been afraid of heights however I found myself frozen in place, unable to take another step forward. Luckily, my wits returned quickly and I figured, hey you’ve seen half of the wall, do you really need to see the rest? The answer was no and I quickly made my way back down, got back on the tourist bus and heading to another castle, my heart rate slowly returning to normal.
The Pena Palace
Welcome to Disney World! That was my first thought upon seeing this massive, unaturally colorful palace.
I mean, come on. This palace looks like it would be right at home in a Disney park (perhaps they shared the same architech? Nope, I checked!)
Originally built during the MIddle Ages as a quiet, meditative chapel, it was slowly transformed over the years. the crux of its transformation can be attributted to the plucky young Prince Ferdinand, who in 1838 transformed it into a Royal summer residence.
Pena Palace it is a national monument, as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal and constitutes one of the major expressions of 19th-century Romanticism in the world (Wikipedia).
Today, it is also used for state occasions by the President of the Portuguese Republic and other government officials.
One major advantage of its hilltop position is the view. The major downside? The wind! Talk about a bad hair day!
Quinta da Regaleira
In my, albeit short, reseach of Sintra, I came upon this photo (right) from Wikipedia and I immediately knew I needed to find this photographic mecca.
My search led me to Quinta da Regaleira (Estate of Regaleira), which is a palace of the Romantic style. There is a chapel, a lusciouspark, lakes, grottoes & fountains, as well as wells. One such well, is the photo famous ‘Initiation Well’. More of a tower with stairs leading underground, it has never actually served as a water source. The story has it that it was used for Tarot rites and that the 27-meter spiral staircase with several small landings is also symbolically linked to Tarot mysticism. Happily, the cards aligned (get it?) and I got my photo:
After a long day of touring regal estates and haunted ruins, the cold has started to settle into my bones and I was in desperate need of a warm internal hug that only a full belly can produce. The historic town center of Sintra is not lacking for restaurants (it’s known as one of Portugal’s wealthiest cities with an abundance of Michelin start restaurants) and I settled into a heated outdoor terrance. My meal of choice? Pizza with a side of red, of course!
